Nice update! That's why I never abuse tyres till they explode, it's just not worth the ballache of trashed bodywork!
2JZGE IMO, just straight and simple, 230bhp and fun! When is your next DWYB of choice? I'll try to make it along
Yeah, i won't be delaming tyres ever again Glad it didn't rip the whole arch off though!
2jz is a much better long term plan than supercharging this, To start with it's a newer engine and bit more power, but not too much to make everything else on the car weaker, About the same sort of power as a Bmw 330ci, just loads lighter and floppier!
Mk4 n/a supra manual will be the perfect doner as Need a w58 to 2jz bell housing, which isn't gunna be cheap, loom, with manual ecu, engine mounts, but can prob get mark to make some. And power steering pump/ alternator.
Not sure on next DWYB ben, I'm gunna be sorting out the diff with a weir performance kit, and prob new clutch while i'm at it. Poly subframe bushes, and as i've just sold my dw R32 skyline cs2 coilovers, i'll be using the red poly bushes i had made as LCA bushes! Just gotta drill them out a tad, but saves me making another set.
She's looking pretty sorry for herself really.
A Screw left in the road killed a near brand new Toyo tyre, So had to bite the bullet and buy another 205-55-15 from camskill. £65:00 so, gone up a fiver from a few months ago
Good tip, when tyres are on the pallet, they are strapped down tightly to get more on, so if you are gunna try and get them on a rim wider than the tyre, get some blocks of wood of equal length and wedge them in to splay the tyre, You won't need a bead blaster then
As i have very little flex in my exhaust system, and the cars quite low, any speed humps i encounter usually ends with the supra's underside coming off worse than the afformentioned humps, Mainly the exhaust gets a kicking, And all along the bottom of it's length there are scratch marks. this also works the manifold loose from the head, so need more flex!
Bought new exhaust manifold gasket , 7 head studs with nuts, and 2 x manifold to downpipe gaskets as the car is blowing like a tractor when it starts from cold. Mark is welding me in a flexi pipe to stop this happening again.
Onto suspension updates, and it's going well.
The s13 rear coilover conversion is nearly ready, just waiting on some inner sleeves from the machinst, and going to investigate if running the springs on the dampers is a viable option? If so will make up some top hats and poly bushes for those opting to 'Chance it'
Got all the hardware to do it now.
Some 63.5mm dia. Seamless Cold Drawn Steel (CDS) has been ordered in 150mm lengths so the front weld on strut tubes will be available very soon. These have a meaty 5mm wall thickness, so No worries about them failing.
Lately my exhaust has been royally pissing me off, Going over the awful speedbumps down my road have levered it about, and it has absolutely no flex in it. So it sounded like a shit tractor for the past few weeks, ok, maybe a month
Ordered new gaskets, a pack of head studs, nuts and mark, (my farbricator and bezzie mate ) Had a flexi pipe sitting around from a previous job, so a plan was hatched..
Old versus new, and apart from the soot and heat corrosion they were in decent order, but genuine new part's are always a pleasure to fit.
After this photo was taken, i set to work on cleaning up all the gasket faces with a 1"paint scraper, a file and wire brush.
Poor thing, I accidently snapped the D shaped intake runner when i was sliding off the rubber hoses, Bastard, it's after the AFM too, so, now i gotta find a way of sealing it up,, other than attempt No.1 = 2 part epoxy resin, and bodge No.2 great big strips of gaffa tape like i did to get home on., worked too haha
One stud had a helicoil with a terrible M8 thread, tried taking it out, but wouldn't budge, so managed to put a bolt in and do it up tight enough. Will look at it again another day, but time was an issue today.
The old system had no flex at all, so with some more flex it shuld put less stress on the studs.
Mark cleaning up his chopped flexipipe, before welding it into the system. He made a pattern copy of the coupling on the end, and chopped out the same length out of my downpipe. I didnt get photo's of it as had my hands full putting it back together by 6pm, So will take some more tomorrow in the daylight
D-rifting R-usty I -credibly F-unky T-yota's o- f Y- esteryear
Ahh, it goes soo much better now too You forget how rubbish it goes after it leaks for a while, and the noise now !! Gorgeous sounding engine, i almost don't wanna give it up for a 2jz. But i dont fancy the faf of buying all the new parts needed to do a supercharger conversion Would be fucking stunning though!,A 5MGZE!
Totally agree with you on that man, Know cock all about them at the moment though, so will burrow my head in research till i do!
Exhaust in the clear light of day photo's.
New flexi pipe welded in with new joiner.
Top gaskets are all bedded in now too. I forgot how nice this engine sounds when it's properly sealed and maintained.
Which got me thinking about the supercharger idea again, 4AGZE and where the charger runs under the intake mani got me wondering if a 5MGZE wouldnt be such a dissimilar thing, just spec everything up obviously! And opposite sides of the engine too.
5MGE (Quite a bit of space under there, and less heat soak from exhaust too.
A 2JZGE may be the more sensible option in regards to a plug and play solution, but i'm not happy about having to spend money on a w57- 2jz bell housing, and no doubt i'll have a headache with all the wiring, so sorta putting it off for now
D-rifting R-usty I -credibly F-unky T-yota's o- f Y- esteryear
Yeah, supercharger will sound amazing, just gotta look into the engine managent side of things, and what cc the standard injectors are (Think they are 185cc?) It's got a walbro 225 on there already, so looking at an eaton M90 Supercharger, but they are proving to be quite elusive on ebay.
In other ebay news and affair's, been buying things.
superpro front Lca & front control arm poly bushes.
Got sum more bits through the post. Not much chance of fitting them this year though as Marks workshop has another Beetle crisis going on.
£70 Clutch, hasn't got springs in so lets see if you do get what you pay for. Incidently the same part no. for the Earlier Mk3 7MGE (upto 1988)
And the front Poly bushes that i need to start the bushfest.
As it states in earlier post, i got some Mazda RX7 4 pot front calipers off ebay which i got for a steal price of £52. Arrived today &,Painted a fetching Brembo red, so will look quite nice!.
Reason i went for these instead of the usual Nissan S14/ 300ZX ones is the mazda discs are 22mm wide when new, Ma61 supra's are 20mm so dont have to stress about finding discs to suit and running big wheels.
Caliper spacing is pretty off, ( Nissan s14 ones line up with std brackets )so will have to measure up, Make a pattern , then Lazer cut some brackets out of some overkill EN24T Plate steel. Then,Will get new Brembo or slotted discs and probably some EBC pads to compliment the set up.
Or.... i could try using some facelift Nissan s13 Discs as they are 280 x 22mm and 4 x 114.3 Just, they are 50mm tall as opposed to r 26mm tall discs on mk2 supra's, so the Mazda calipers would sit more away from the spokes than stock. Will try and blag an old disc to try!
Other things to source are a 1" Mk3 supra Brake master cylinder, but as i'm already running the 7/8" Celica Supra master on a mk3 supra Brake booster i know its gunna be plain sailing. Brake pipes are same fitting M10 x 1.0mm so i can order the Goodrich braided line kit. and then think about the rears... dum dum dum
After x mas i'll get my Weir performance Goodies to sort out the standard 7.5" 2 way diff's worn lock weakness.
Thanks mo, She's more of a test mule now, as you'll see below!
So, onto the write up and a bit of a fitting guide if you guy's are thinking of going down the same route..
Ok, first thing to take into account is that you will have to get your hand dirty, It's not a direct fit so some basic tool's are needed
* A Trolley jack / flat surface and axle stands/ wheel chocks
* A decent Bench Vice
* Hacksaw with a new blade.
* Copper Hammer (nice weight one)
* C spanners (make sure you get them with the coilovers)
* A round/ flat metal file/ and some Emery cloth.
* Copper grease / anti seize compound (I will supply you with a 70g tube like pictured with front kit)
Loosen the nyloc nut at the top of your new coilover and slide off the S13 Pillowball top mounts, along with the top and bottom spacer hats.
Next, Dig out the standard Rubber bushes from your old MA61 dampers (If they are perished, buy some Superpro poly replacments, No point putting any old crap back on. My rubber ones were like new, so i will get some later on.
And arrange them like pictured.
the curved washers on the top and bottom bush SHOULD cup the bushes, so make sure you put them how i pictured. the middle washer is a centre locator to guide the damper strut in straight. The washers may not fit, so a bit of filing will be involved. Not a lot though!
Next step is the bottom mount,
before you go any further, and if your using second hand Coilovers Make sure all the threads are free to turn, so spend some serious time cleaning everything till they're like new .
Notice i've already pressed in the spacer tubes. Also, this is the bit if your using New dampers your warranty will go out the window, as this next bit requires some cutting.. (But you DO want decent/ cheap suspension don't you?! ) My advice, dont be a Pussy and get it done.
As you can see in the picture ^ i have removed one of the lips on the bottom mount. (Reason will become apparent in next pic)
As you can see, the damper sleeve is longer than the lug, but its not so bad, the s13 dampers had some little lips which makes for awesome cutting guides..
I only removed one lip as i had some 16mm OD washers to make up the difference. If i were you, and had more time i'd trim them both so you use less washers .
Bolt's need to be 30mm long, but try finding them I just chopped them down as left the ones i did have to supply at work
This is the next fun bit. Clean up your bottom lugs! (not pictured)
The tolerences for the lugs were awful, Are designed to support rubber bushes, plus 20 odd years of wear means they are not usually dead on 16mm, So spend a bit of time with some emery cloth/ glass paper till the bottom Damper tubes (with my sleeves) slide on nicely without lateral movement. So DON'T go mental with a dremmel It's hardly any material, so go SLOW!
Your nearly there, so don't lose faith yet man!
Next you want to take apart the damper sleeves and Grease the absolute crap out the female bottom damper tubes. And i mean/ don't scrimp on the grease, really go to town on it!
Reassemble, then jack up the car, (always support) & remove a wheel, then position the top of the damper through the holes Making sure all bushes and washers are in the correct order. Lightly wind on the nut a couple of turns.
DON'T fully tighten as this gives the dampers some much needed movement.
Put the wheel back on, and nip up the wheel nuts, you WILL need to take it off again, so just do them up to hold the wheel. Drop the car so the wheel/ arch gaps about 1- 2" off being fully supported by the springs, This will give the dampers a bit of compliance. Do the same for the threaded bottom tubes. ie, allow the holes to line up about 1" BELOW the bottom lugs. It's much kinder on the damper units to have a bit of droop as the wheel sometimes wants to drop slightly when going over a crest/ speed hump ect.
If you've ever experienced a knocking sound, this is usually the Root cause, hence why lots of posh coilovers now come with preload helper springs below the main ones.
Ok, so Now everything is lined up, cleaned and lubricated the home stretch in sight!
Slide the bottom mounts over the lugs, ( Don't forget to grease) observe the gap and space the remainder with some washers like i've done, hell, you could even use the sleeves you took off the Nissan top mounts if they're the same size but a few washers wont hurt to space out the remainder (Less are needed if you take off both lips)
Thread in the new 30mm bottom bolt (Grease!) and fit spring washer between the bolt head and the original cup washer.
Fully tighten the tops (good idea to replace the nuts if Nylocs)
Jack up the car again and remove the wheel (last time! )
you should be looking at something very similar to this..
You then will need to tighten up the locking collars , so, once again everyone! "GREASE" Haha ;D Yeah, wipe a bit of grease between the end of the threads , then wind the collar down over the grease till it nips up against the top of the bottom tube. Grab you c spanner and tighten them up till your happy. (A few taps with the copper hammer against the spanner is my technique)
Refit wheel, drop car and repeat for the other side, then chill! you've done well, so, before you take it out for a drive remember to set your dampers to an equal level, (i set mine to 16/32 clicks)
Oh, and to anyone who want's to know about running the springs the same as the S13, check pic below...
Picture ^ shows the amount of clearance between the damper unit and the body of the car. The Nissan S13 2.5" dia springs would def. foul against the body. there's about 20mm between them at the bottom, and gets tighter as you go up!
I have Whiteline Anti Roll bars on my car, so the spring rate doesn't have to be really hard to support the weight of the car. I just have shortened originals, but i will post up some details on part codes for some Eibach replacement springs and spring cup adjusters v. soon!
Hope this has been useful to you guys anyhow!
D-rifting R-usty I -credibly F-unky T-yota's o- f Y- esteryear
We got the front coilovers fitted today using my new strut tubes and damn, i'm good ;D The fit was perfect, and they are tbh bloody amazing, a complete night and day difference to how the car drives now. I've done a write up on this, and the photo's will b used for the instructions sheet available with the Driftoy strut tubes, but your best bet if your not confident with welding is to send them to us and we'll convert them in under a week if i haven't sourced enough sets to do an exchange
Anyway, onto the write up...
After you have stripped the struts of the springs and dampers you will have your S13 coilovers and Driftoy strut tubes.
Next thing is to remove the brake brackets, hub/ discs and disc shield, A vice is a must, air tools and penetrating fluid are also reccomended!
After stripping you should be left with this.
With everything off.
While it's in the vice its a good time to Mark with a scribe 1" from the bottom all the way round.
This is plenty material, and you'll NEVER run a ma61 that low to require any shorter.
Struts all stripped and marked up for cutting.
I have a Mark, which is about the best fabrication asset you can have, If you don't have a mark to hand Send me your struts for conversion.
Mark thrives on Tea and banter, so i keep him topped up regularly with both to ensure he performs to full operational capability.
Once their chopped they look like this.
Next job is to clean them up with a wire wheel.
How clean This clean. Also, put a radius around the edge you just removed.
Driftoy sleeves are a press fit, so Bottle jack/ fly press is needed.
On to welding.
Mark first tack welded the sleeves in 4 spots.
Then fusion welded the first run. ( Fusion welding is without rods)
He did 3 runs in total. 2 with rods were done on a turn table.
First one done, and Brake pipe brackets slotted and welded on.
When cleaned up they looked like this, That's proper welding!
So, Now they need paint,
A zinc based primer is prob the best one to use as the base coat, then choose whatever colour you like, Personally satin black is the only can i need!
Refit everything how it came off the car. (sorry about blurry pics)
Front sleeves are £90 + p&p Rear conversion sleeves are £20 or £100 for the Set (+ p&p)