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Post by retrogaz on May 21, 2012 22:47:41 GMT 2
As you guys know, I have been ranting on about picking up my 85 MA61 for weeks now, and finally I HAVE IT! Big thank you to Martyn and the other guys that were there for the warm welcome, that was one seriously cool man-shed and some great looking motors. So to start off with, a few pics to show off my pride and joy! So to start with, I have found the elusive wiring diagram, coupled with my trusty Haynes Manual and a little help from my resident mechanic, I'm determined to get this sucker wired up so I can move on to plumbing in the other bits needed. As you can see she isn't by any means running, parts that will be sourced over the coming weeks are: New Turbo as the old turbo's seals are gone, looks old and frankly, £80 on a decent seal kit, or £200 for a new CT26 isn't exactly gonna break the bank. I may even stretch and push for the Holset HX35 at £400, it all depends on my cash flow when it comes to this point as we are moving house in the coming months, so it may have to wait. AFM - I have sourced a second hander, the guy wants £60 but I'll defo try knock him down a bit. Downpipe and Exhaust system - Annoying but will most likely need to take my time on this, and get it sitting nicely as standard downpipe would foul the steering rack. I've been advised to use the 5m as a guide, may need a lil help with finding someone to make this for me. Rad & FMIC - I'm thinking universal, opting for the universal aluminium race radiator that I've seen on Ebay and a decent FMIC - Any recommendations on this with regards to size? Effectively, this is all stuff to tackle in the near future, for the time being, I will be attacking my engine bay with plenty of cleaning fluids and a set of stiff wire brushes before I push on with the wiring. I have a query that hopefully one of you guys can help me with - I'm not sure how to wire up the speedo etc to the new engine, I've been told it is fairly straight forward but hell if I know. It's the really cool digi dash, and I'd like to keep it on the car. I'd really appreciate it if someone could shed some light on how this is done. ok, that's it for now chaps, more pics and hopefully alot of progress to come soon! Gaz
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Post by shifty on May 24, 2012 20:54:28 GMT 2
nice. was tempted with this myself but common sense won for a change... take the wierd graphic and gash stickers off and she'll look 10x better. so you got big plans for it or just a drift weapon?
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Post by retrogaz on May 24, 2012 22:30:13 GMT 2
nice. was tempted with this myself but common sense won for a change... take the wierd graphic and gash stickers off and she'll look 10x better. so you got big plans for it or just a drift weapon? At the moment shifty, I just want to get it to a state where it's running smooth, then I can start tinkering and turning it into a drift weapon Currently going through the motions, planning and cleaning mostly. I pulled the alternator out and gave the casing a good seeing to with the wire brushes. Also, dragged the turbo out to see what the damage was, it's looking pretty sorry for itself, so im at the point of just saying fuck it, and buying a holset hx35, I'm just concerned there will be tons of lag? As I'm also after a radiator, could you guys tell me how this universal would compare to a standard oem? www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-HIGH-FLOW-ALUMINIUM-RACE-RADIATOR-COOLING-RADIATOR-KIT-CAR-DRAG-G-/150822732766?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DDLSL%252BSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D180882908394%252B180882908394%26po%3D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8649182978226564185#ht_500wt_1180as for the sticker bombed boot, they're defo coming off, but not until I assess the rust underneath There are a few spots on the inside of the boot lid, but bodywork will have to wait until I have her up and running.
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Post by retrogaz on May 24, 2012 23:33:14 GMT 2
A few pics of the alternator - what a difference a wire brush can make! BEFORE...... ....AND AFTER! I wish I had the necessary equipment to lift the engine out so I could get access and give it a major clean, but allas, I will have to make do with trying to get in from the angles I have available. Couple more bits will be coming off and getting the wire brush treatment over the next few days, and the engine bay is fairly grease free, so just gonna go over with a cloth or 2 to get the gunk around the bottom.
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Post by Neil on May 25, 2012 0:27:48 GMT 2
Right, i'm all settled down, got a stock of bererages next to me and my rooms cool enough to type in! so lets's get all Jessica Fletcher keyboardist on this shit! ;D Ok, firstly well done on buying her, i can see it needs a bit of attention with the rear spats ect, but it's a pretty good base by all means. ...Now onto questions and answers time... Ok, if you haven't got the standard rad, just Get the biggest Ali one you can with the same hose arrangment. And make some decent shrouds up as that's what draws the hot air though properly. As for Core size I'd go for a 50mm core width myself. Get bidding on this one. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-SUPRA-TURBO-MK4-JZA80-3-0-TURBO-ALUMINUIM-ALLOY-RACE-RADIATOR-RAD-93-96-/150822272075?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item231db53c4b#ht_506wt_698 As these engine run quite hot when you turn the boost up. So, if you can squeeze an electric fan in front of the rad to push air through too it'll help to keep the engine from dying on it's arse. Oil temp's are important too so get an oil cooler from a Jag XJ model, or another big engined car thats Dirt cheap. Actually i can ask one of my banger mates if they got one.if ya like Intercooler Is same much of a muchness, Apart from the twattish intake crossing over the cam cover design that makes front mounts a bit of an arse. You want to shorten the stock pipework really as the mk3 set up goes through the wing on some elaborate cooling Walkabout. Avoid that if you can . You can feed a pipe under the light if you cut a hole in the steel, There's loads of room so much better route. But, if your going down the holset route, you wont want to be mincing about on stock boost of 6.7psi will ya?! So intercooler needs to be upgraded to something much more efficient and core design limits choice, Also you don't want anything too fancy for drifting as intercoolers usually come off quite badly on a drift car! A few people have cut and shut 2JZGTE intake plenums onto 7MGTE intake runners. www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?633308-2jz-intake-on-7mgteSo if you could find a 2JZ intake going cheap we could chop and weld it up for you, but have a read of the results and weigh up whats gunna be easier and cheaper to do. And as for worrying about lag, don't The Hx35 Isnt that far off the size of the CT26, just it's got bigger veins and a more efficent design, so will boost up prob around the same rpm as the CT, just will be A lot more fun than the 20 odd year old original. Decent intake and exhaust pipework has it's part to play in lag , more so on exhaust side upto a point so go 3" on exhaust and as straight through as noise regs allow. And lastly, speedo connector is on drivers side of the gearbox, and is a round Knurled plastic screw on the end of the cable probably 45mm dia that threads into the speedo on the gearbox. Done Tadaa! ;D
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Post by shifty on May 25, 2012 20:57:55 GMT 2
haha they calls him mr supra...
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Post by retrogaz on May 26, 2012 1:46:43 GMT 2
right, i'll defo keep a watchful eye on that rad, or something similar. you read my mind with regards to electric fans, I know how badly belt driven fans can effect power in some cases. There is already an oil cooler just behind the front bumper, with piping running to o/s just under the light, not sure if this is going to hinder the fmic in any way, I'll get pics in the morning so you can see., you can just see the 2 pipes running from the oil cooler in the engine pic above. You may have to point me in the right direction with regards to plumbing this into the oil system. I already have my eye on a custom ffim, just finding out exactly what he's offering with it and making sure I can get a sweet deal on it. ideally i want the guy to throw in the fmic and pipework, also wondering how much of a pain it will be relocating the alternator, would this require a different alternator/drive belt? I've read that a MSD tach adapter is required to make the dash work. Not too sure how it all ties in together, there is an installation diagram here - download.telematica.gr/MSD/8920.pdf which shows other MSD parts being used, but im guessing the same rule applies to the standard ignition pack i already have? and would the speedo cable still run to the gearbox or would the use of the tach adapter change this?
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Post by Neil on May 26, 2012 2:31:07 GMT 2
I meant to keep the viscous fan and run additional fans on the rad. The mk3 set up is visocus and 2 small 5" electric fans next to it, so 3 fans in total! Running a decent sized one in front of the rad on a switch would sort the temps out. And, yeah there is the stock little oil cooler in front of the bumper, And it's ok on the 5mge , but Running a bigger oil cooler means more oil in the system, and 7 litres dissipates heat better than 5 litres. Really heat managment is where you need to concentrate most on with a 7MGTE, They're amazingly torquey engines, but anything over stock boost produces a shitload of heat with them, water and oil temps get pretty high with my mate's one after 5 mins of drifting and it's not good for reliability. As for the other bits, i'll get back to you on that
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Post by retrogaz on May 27, 2012 3:37:39 GMT 2
I meant to keep the viscous fan and run additional fans on the rad. The mk3 set up is visocus and 2 small 5" electric fans next to it, so 3 fans in total! Running a decent sized one in front of the rad on a switch would sort the temps out. And, yeah there is the stock little oil cooler in front of the bumper, And it's ok on the 5mge , but Running a bigger oil cooler means more oil in the system, and 7 litres dissipates heat better than 5 litres. Really heat managment is where you need to concentrate most on with a 7MGTE, They're amazingly torquey engines, but anything over stock boost produces a shitload of heat with them, water and oil temps get pretty high with my mate's one after 5 mins of drifting and it's not good for reliability. As for the other bits, i'll get back to you on that ahhh I get ya, I don't have the original viscous fan or shroud, so will either have to find one, or consider other options. The pulley on the water pump sits loose, kinda like the bolts don't tighten all the way on as there isn't enough thread, is this where the fan would nomally sit?
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Post by retrogaz on Jun 5, 2012 17:18:08 GMT 2
Small update - I haven't been working on the car this week due to my neighbours being absolute dicks and complaining to my landlord about working on the car on the drive. My neighbours built the house I live in, and when they sold it to my landlord, there was a clause put in saying no mechanical work could be carried out on the driveway.
So basically, I am waiting to move the car down to my new unit where I will have all the freedom I need to work without getting a gob full.
I have made a little progress, the loom is now pulled through the firewall - which took me all of 5 minutes, I was dreading it due to other people saying it's an absolute nightmare and has taken over an hour for some, but I fail to see how... I have stripped most of the dash so that the sub harnesses can be made up and wired in. I'm getting the AFM this week, and will be ordering a load of silicone hoses to replace the standard rubber shite on the engine.
I can't see a charcoal cannister in my engine bay, so I think I'm gonna have to source one from somewhere. Is there an alternative to finding an oem?
Also on the hunt for auxiliary belts for p/s, alternator and water pump.
More updates to come, but not alot I can do until I get it shifted, so should know fairly soon when I can move her down to the new unit!
Gaz.
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Post by retrogaz on Jun 6, 2012 15:11:53 GMT 2
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Post by Neil on Jun 8, 2012 23:56:58 GMT 2
AMAZING price for that AFM mate! Bloody hell Soz i've been off the forum recently. I've been busy Designing some new products and watching the TT (I dont even like motorbikes but that shits mental!) As for carbon canister i really wouldnt bother, never found one on my uk car so pretty sure they were only installed on U.S/ cali Cars due to their strict emmisions regulations. i think they also have to run 2/3 cats on there too when they were sold over there! Belts should just be a case of your local Toyota main dealer, most parts are still available for mk3's and being a u.k car it's pretty easy for pattern parts at motor factors. Hope the move goes smoothly too man. Shame you can't work on it at your house but will be nice to keep it dry.
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Post by retrogaz on Jun 9, 2012 2:22:12 GMT 2
AMAZING price for that AFM mate! Bloody hell Soz i've been off the forum recently. I've been busy Designing some new products and watching the TT (I dont even like motorbikes but that shits mental!) As for carbon canister i really wouldnt bother, never found one on my uk car so pretty sure they were only installed on U.S/ cali Cars due to their strict emmisions regulations. i think they also have to run 2/3 cats on there too when they were sold over there! Belts should just be a case of your local Toyota main dealer, most parts are still available for mk3's and being a u.k car it's pretty easy for pattern parts at motor factors. Hope the move goes smoothly too man. Shame you can't work on it at your house but will be nice to keep it dry. Yes I was well surprised when it ended with no more bids, I had my highest bid set quite a bit more than that as well - in the region of £50 haha. Not that I'm complaining!!! She's under the cover atm but with all this really shitty weather we're having it won't be doing much to keep the rain off, I've had to tie the cover down too as its blowing a bloody storm out. Need to push this guy and get it shifted into the dry ASAP. I've decided I'll be dropping the clutch out too and whacking in a stage 3, 6 puck and fidanza flywheel, gonna need the extra strength for the increase in torque me thinks!
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Post by retrogaz on Jul 16, 2012 12:58:10 GMT 2
Small update - I've pretty much sorted out some dry workspace for my supra, just waiting for a lady to get back in touch when the garage unit is ready this week.
It's a decent sized garage, more than enough space to work in and around the car. It's decently priced at £100pcm including electric and water which is fairly cheap considering some of the units I've looked at lately.
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Post by retrogaz on Aug 10, 2012 15:48:36 GMT 2
ok, so I'm still waiting for someone to get back to me regarding the lock up, the guy who was suppose to be moving out of it has taken it on for another 2 months. So should be out of there in the next month hopefully!!!!! I will be ordering my turbo this month, The T4 turbo comes as part of a kit, which includes custom top mount manifold, 3" v band downpipe, 50mm wastegate, 4" intake, screamer pipe, air filter, fittings, gaskets and lines. This is pretty much the biggest expense on my project and the main reason why I haven't been buying other bits due to saving for this, so I figured I'd get it done first rather than shelling out for the other parts and ending up skint, the rest will be odd parts ranging up to £300, which will be alot more manageable and will mean things can start moving forward! On another note, does anyone have experience with batteries? I'm looking at the Braille no-weight 15lb battery ( www.driftworks.com/shop/braille-racing-battery-15lb.html) they have on driftworks, it looks like a solid choice and something that will last. Any opinions would be appreciated edit: one more thing, without sounding too lazy, does anyone know the sizes for the wheel nuts? are they 12x1.5?
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