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Post by supraslide on Mar 3, 2011 23:17:32 GMT 2
Right sucesfully posted a picture for the first time in my life, Is it wrong that I'm genuinely proud of doing something most 9 year olds can do. Anyhoo lets try starting a thread.
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Post by supraslide on Mar 3, 2011 23:46:58 GMT 2
Oh yes I'm on form today now I'll tell youwhat the threads about and show you some pics. First off the err.... car as it is. I promise it is a car not aparts shelf. Well the plan is to make a B road blaster for some occasional track and drift usage. Have designed and fitted my own cage, most of it's in now. Just the main hoop brace and door cars to go in but will have to wait as I don't want to be climbing over themall the time. Some pics of the cage Rear section of the cage, have holesawed through the floor to tie the doff mounts into the cage. as they areadjustable thoughtI'd better not do this so put them through to the chassis rails next to the diff hanger. The rear spread plates wasn't sure whether to go to the rear arch damper mount or spring perch so the answer was to box them all together. again with the main hoop not really anywhere solid to go to so made something solid. Alll my spread plates are 2mm base formed to the shape of the car with 4mm where the cage welds to. Forming the metal was a bastard best tip is to get the piece your tryingto shape throuw it on a log burner for an hour then smack shit out of it with a hammer. more of the cage Close up of the welding mig'd spread plate and tig'd cage. sexual Front legs shown folowing the A pillar quite nicely. I had a rolling company put the tight bends on for me to drawings I gave them however my drawings were not the best and when fitted they restricted the view far too much sohad to make a few tweeks with a hydraulic pipe bender and (like a glove). Supports for the front towers spread plated to the bulkhead an to the tower. The wiper motor still fits yey. Anyway loads more to come but all in good time.
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Post by Neil on Mar 4, 2011 0:45:18 GMT 2
Nice work there dude That cage and tig welding looks really good, The car should be mega stiff now. I esp liked the stock car in the pic. I will get cracking on front strut braces when i got a bit of time, gunna do 3 way brace onto bulkhead with rose joints. any thoughts on a colour yet?
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Post by supraslide on Mar 4, 2011 18:50:51 GMT 2
The car isgoing white with a black bonnet as all my supra'shave had this colour scheme. Not sure actual paint codes I quite like the Audi white on the newer cars but am wondering whether it would be a bit bright. The car was originaly a piss stained white colour. Am undecided on painting the tailgate black as homage to the original XX model. With the strut brace dude I'm going 2jzge and to make things more tricky Cas has provided me witha set of RB26 throttle plates that I'm gonna try to graft onto the engine. So amunsure of the clearances at the mo. Anyhoo time for some more pics. Front crossmember difficult to see but I've stich welded it; 1inch runs with the tig. Some pics of the seamwelding on the car. I've basicaly tacked it every 15mm. I know that most the rally lads do 1 inch runs but wasa bit concerned about putting too muchheat into the car. Plus this is what the japs do and its ajapanese car so when in rome (fuck the pope) or something. A word of warning seam welding an entire car is a big job the hardest part is getting rid of all the stone chip and underseal Unless you can afford media blasting or an acid bath; very expensive, your stuck with a wire wheel on agrinder and a set of picksto get in the gaps. its realy messy the underseal turns to silly string when it melts and i spent 2 weeks looking like I'd just pleasured spiderman. Other things I've done is to remove the sunroof. I mainly did this for head room but upon taking out the mechanism and associated bracketry found it had removed 20kg from the top of the car (where you don't want it). Next was deciding how to fill the resulting hole. I've seen people who have welded in a panel then skimed over the welds but that leaves the job of re-inforcing the otherwise flimsy roof with top hat sections thus loosing all the head room I'd gained. My solution was to bond a sheet of ally to the inside of the roofskin then use filler to level off the roof. I intended to just use a 2 pack epoxy resin and prop the sheet in position while it cured. This didn't work so I ended up using rivets. I used magnalock rivets which are designed not to deform between the 2 sheets and are used to close up gaps. This did the job quite nicely and realy stiffened up the roof. However now I was stuck with rivets on the roof which I wsa not happy with but did'nt have the guts to drill them out incase I go round a corner and the ally pops out. My rather pikey solution was to dolly the underside of the rivet with a socket and hit the top till it was flush with the roof then fill in the dimples. Tidy some pics This shows the inside. Could't get the ally to take the full shape of the roof so ended up doing the front 2 thirds. In retrospect would have gone for 1.5mm sheet as oppose to the 2mm I used. Also it shows the roofskin is black this is the 3 lavers of kurust I put onto the car so as to issolate the steel from the ally as miing dissimilar metals is bad ( would cause roof to rot) I have some strips of zinc that I'm going to place around the shell as sacrificial annodes. the outside with most of the filler work done but not finished yet. It usualy has the sump off the 2J on it. Now for some stuff that might interest niel. a pic of my front strut set up with ally 4pots and as yet useless camber adjustment pillowball topmounts. Thanks to retro-stu for the converted hubs and discs thanks to Cas for the callipers. Pic of the two types of nissan 4 pot both made by sumitomo. Ally one on the left steel on the right. The ally ones weigh 3.4 kg with good pads and the steel ones weigh 5.1kg with half used pads. i weighed these on my digital bathroom scales so the weights may not be bang on but they're a good guide. There is not actualy as much in it as I thought there would be 1.7kg a side isn't really too bad. I suppose the ally ones will disipate heat a bit better than steel and it is unsprung mass so there is this to take into consideration with spring rates and damper settings. Just put my front strut on the scales ohh moma 26 kilos. hopfully the coilover spring setup will shave a couple of kilos off that but I doubt it. Those discs are heavy. Thats all for now stay tuned
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Post by supraslide on Mar 5, 2011 12:35:00 GMT 2
Right then have just pent £198 on a polybush kit for the car and pretty much skinted myself in the process, oh well needs must. Looks like I'm gonna be riding the bike to work for the next month. Got the one Neil suggested on Ebay from poland checked out the blokes feed back and every one seemed happy with the products so game on. Now gotta wait 2 week to see how easy they're gonna be to fit.
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Post by papercutout on Mar 7, 2011 16:22:55 GMT 2
Looking good! Liking the work that's been done, seems like you want to do it all to a high standard too! Personally I'd not have been bothered by the rivets on the roof though - done neatly it could look good.
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Post by supraslide on Mar 7, 2011 19:06:53 GMT 2
In all fairness my work isn't that good. Some of the joints I made in the cage had big gaps so just gobbed it up with the tig. Or smashed them shut with big hammer. Most of them are gonna get gusseted (hide the shit)
i agree about the rivets they were all perfectly spaced scribed out the positions on the roof 5omm from the edge 100mm spacings and worked from the middle. my biggest concern was blocking it off to get the roof line right. If there were rivets there it would have been nigh on impossible so they had to go.
Progress report. Finished off the seam welding. Well only the boot to do now. Got the engine bay seam sealer'd. Used the brush on stuff and got through nearly a kilo just doin the bay and the front arches. (It doesn't go as far as you'd think)
Anyhoo have got a bit of a dilema. Should I or shouldn't I cut out the spare wheel well. Here are the pro's and cons as I see them. Pro's: Be able to seam weld the chassis rail as at the mo can't get in to clean off the seam Have more space under the car to fab up venturi style undertray. Time attack stylee. Make custom ally fuel tank with swirl pot. More room to play with the exhaust , posible centre exit. can run bars between the chassis rails to stiffen the car. Cons: Would actualy have to do all the shit I just listed; like it was nothing. Would loose room in the car for transporting wheels (bit shit for a drift day) Would probably have to mount fuel tank in the car. Thus raising the height of a substantial amount of weight in the car not to mention an increased chance of burning to death. ( supose I could just get some syonide capsules for the sun visor)
Your inputs will be much appreciated.
PS Neil I do have a spare sump for a 5m it has a small dent in the front corner by the sump plug where i jumped it off a humpback bridge but should be perfectly serviceable. PM'd you on driftworks bout the whole engine. Let me know. forgot to mention I have an original toyota parts directory/rebuild guide for toyota 5mge that would be included.
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Post by papercutout on Mar 8, 2011 2:34:51 GMT 2
Cut the floor out, do all work listed above, put new custom floor in with built in cutout/square and fit a custom tank - this way you keep boot space, and the only downside is not being able to run a mid exit - which doesn't really matter.
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Post by supraslide on Mar 8, 2011 19:34:30 GMT 2
Like the idea dude. sounds like a good compromise. Just kinda wanted a centre exit so as the venturi would flow the air the same both sides, Or possibly to satisfy my OCD for symetry. I'm gonna go down tonight and use the force on it i.e. stare at it for a bit.
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Post by supraslide on Mar 16, 2011 0:30:51 GMT 2
Did a fair bit of staring and decided not todo anything yet. Just gonna leave the boot unfinished at the mo, till I get the underside done and all the running gear back on. Then I know how much room I've got to play with. Wanna get a decent size tank on it bout 50l although at this rate I'll probably never have enough money to fill it.
Progress: Right then another kilo of seam sealer and the underside is done. Spent what little money I have on paint and have primed and got the first coat of white on the engine bay. Next on the list is to finish the bay off and get it laquered Then stone chip the underside of the car and waxoil it. My polybush kit arrived today so plenty to get on with as I have yet to clean and paint the subframes and arms.
Will get busy with the camera and get some pics up.
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My MA61
Mar 20, 2011 17:52:51 GMT 2
Post by Neil on Mar 20, 2011 17:52:51 GMT 2
Cool, Are you happy with the polybush kit? It looks like a pretty complete package. Rca's are going to be laser cut instead of machined, so should be a fair bit nicer, so when they're done they will be in other chat section till i get a shop up and running, But to do that i gotta get some more products sorted
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My MA61
Mar 21, 2011 18:49:25 GMT 2
Post by supraslide on Mar 21, 2011 18:49:25 GMT 2
with the polybush kit the anser is yes and no. Not realy sure at the mo. Got the old bushes out the front and rear arms on saturday. Am gonna have to see if the shells need removing aswell. The bolts seem a nice fit in the sleeves on the arms but the front arm is just a piece of channel with flared holes and cant help thinkin that without a shell on them the arms will just cut the bush to shit. Also there is some play on the subframe bolts where they go in the sleeves. this is the same as the oe bushes but would have expected them to be a tighter fit. Am gonna go down tonight and get some pics. With the front arm bush I think if it needs it I will turn it down so that it fits in the original shell. To be honest apart from the subframe and diff mounts I can't see it making much of a difference the oe bushes are pretty good. Theres not all that much rubber in them. Quick question. Do you still have your original droplinks as I need a set of fronts to bodge on the back of mine. Also if the RCA's your getting done are lasered will they have the locating flanges around the holes. Let me know bout that engine as the missus is gettin on my case a bit. I've got a spare sump you can have either way.
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Post by Neil on Mar 22, 2011 1:27:34 GMT 2
. Quick question. Do you still have your original droplinks as I need a set of fronts to bodge on the back of mine. Also if the RCA's your getting done are lasered will they have the locating flanges around the holes. Let me know bout that engine as the missus is gettin on my case a bit. I've got a spare sump you can have either way. Yeah, i do still have the old drop links dude, yours if you want them. p.m me your address, and i'll stick them in the post for you Rca's will have shrunk in stainless inserts through which the longer bolts will go. They will also have a stainless locatior for underneath the strut tubes shrunk in (i work wilh cryogenics) so, they should be quite light and strong and a much cleaner end product. As for engine.... I'm currently bidding on a lexus v8, But if it starts going silly money i prob wont bother so i'm not sure about engines at the moment. If she's giving you shit about it, just try and sell it dude. I think i need to get those nissan calipers off you next though. M.o.t coming up, and i cant justifty buying new discs and pads for the current shit set up.
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My MA61
Mar 22, 2011 18:12:23 GMT 2
Post by supraslide on Mar 22, 2011 18:12:23 GMT 2
Tidy dude the RCA's sound the bollocks put me down for a set. Do you get to freeze shit and smash it up. I'm thinking terminator 2 and demolition man. Or do you have walt disneys brain in a freezer.
1uz then it should be a really nice conversion plus get to shift the weight back in the car a fair bit. You probably already know this but if you want a manual gearbox (which you obviously do) I think you need to get a custom bellhousing which aren't cheap. Shifty is probably the best one to talk to but failing that I know cas has a uz that he wants to put in his mk4 supra so has looked at all the bits needed. He may want to sell his engine (don't quote me on that) not sure what route he's going so it may be worth dropping him a line. Saw him the weekend and told him bout the site so he may appear on here before too long.
Cheers bout the droplinks will pm you now if you invoice me via paypal and drop me a pm to let me know I'll sort out the postage costs. Will have to wait till the end of the week though (payday)
Still got those callipers mate so consider them reserved. Take it you read about the weights not much in it really.
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My MA61
Mar 30, 2011 18:39:17 GMT 2
Post by supraslide on Mar 30, 2011 18:39:17 GMT 2
Quick update. the polybush kit off ebay uses the original shells so be aware of this when removing the oe bushes. Also the outer rear trailing arm bush is a bit slack on the bolt. It appears to be designed for an m13 when the car uses m12's. Have emailed the seller and he has got back to me and seems willing to sort the problem so we shall see. In order to remove the bushes Ifound the easiest way was to drill down the side of the rubber squirt some oil in the resulting holes then either use a vice and some carefully arrange sockets or in the case of the rear arms i put a bottle jack between the two mounts and again used sockets to push out the bushes. some pics: This is the picture of the front lower arm bush fitted to the oe shell. Had to remove the sleeve push the bush in then push the sleeve back in to fit which has pushed some of the bush though the end am hoping it will settle back into position. This shows the problem. Oh well on to some more encoraging progress. a coupleof pics of the painted engine bay. I used 2 cans of proxl etch primer £14 a can (expensive but worth it) goes down realy nicely. 3 cans of ral9010 white spray paint £12 a can 2 cans of upol laquer £7 a can but the finish isn't that bad cosidering I didn't bother flating back any of the coats of paint. After some advise think I'm gonna white stone chip the under side of the car so shouldlook tidy with the black suspension arms. May have to roll the car so people apreciate the work.
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