|
Post by Neil on Sept 19, 2012 1:25:35 GMT 2
Quality build thread updates mate. Really nice clear photo's too so keep that up and will make for a good 7MGTE Stripdown. Might even break out the old "Sticky" Thread Arrow ;D That Samco hose kit is pretty bloody inclusive isnt it Buggered if i'd know where all those went?! Yeah, and will have those injectors off you when your done with them too. i'm just starting my parts hoarding for it now, Bit by bit. how much are the Head Gaskets going for Btw?
|
|
|
Post by retrogaz on Sept 19, 2012 10:05:04 GMT 2
Quality build thread updates mate. Really nice clear photo's too so keep that up and will make for a good 7MGTE Stripdown. Might even break out the old "Sticky" Thread Arrow ;D That Samco hose kit is pretty bloody inclusive isnt it Buggered if i'd know where all those went?! Yeah, and will have those injectors off you when your done with them too. i'm just starting my parts hoarding for it now, Bit by bit. how much are the Head Gaskets going for Btw? I know what you mean mate, I have no idea where half of these pipes are going, I'm gonna have to sight them up with the old pipes and break out the haynes or look online. As for the head gasket, it's around $190, depending on the thickness I get, I need to get the head skimmed first, then take measurements before I know which thickness to buy. The hg is multi layer steel made by Cometic, they have a whole range of thicknesses, so should be easy to get what I want. I was originally gonna go for the HKS, but for the sake of saving $200, the Cometic will do just fine. I'll be heading down to the garage today to pull the head off and start cleaning everything up. If I get the head cleaned up today, it'll be heading down for a skim, so pics and maybe a vid or 2 to follow!
|
|
|
Post by retrogaz on Sept 21, 2012 10:14:51 GMT 2
Slow progress these last few days, but better than no progress. I have the head all but off now, it's actually looking fairly clean for it's age. I don't really have any experience with gauges, so effectively I don't own any. Not sure how much of an issue this presents as I can't measure tolerances, but how much will this effect things when she goes back together? I lifted the cam shafts out, after pulling all the rockers, which surprisingly were all stamped and numbered, so that saved me a job. The valve lifters are nice and shiny, barely any scoring and frankly look good as new, hopefully the valves and springs are all good too, all the head bolts have been loosened and the head is ready to be lifted out, I need to look into how these valves are pulled out before I lift the head, as I don't have any tools for this. I'd just like to add, anyone planning on doing a swap like this, if you don't have many tools, be prepared to add another £300 - £500 onto your budget for tooling up. I'm constantly having to go out and buy another tool here and there, but on the bright side, I have it all there for the next project
|
|
spence
Junior Member
Posts: 92
|
Post by spence on Sept 21, 2012 10:24:15 GMT 2
No just lend all your tools to us lol.
It is good progress well done and looking forward to seeing it get finished.
|
|
|
Post by retrogaz on Sept 23, 2012 13:38:22 GMT 2
The head has been off a couple days now, I had a few hours yesterday to dig in and get the valve train stripped out. The valve springs and retainers came out without any issues, all in good condition and looking healthy, so no need to do any replacing at this stage. The cylinder head is gonna be a bitch to clean, as expected, my mate told me to chuck it in the dish washer... not sure about that, my misses will throttle me :S I have a big tin of degreaser, so i may find a big container and dilute it to make a dip tank, then we'll get it down to the machinist for a light skimming. I also knocked up a valve stem holder, to reduce any risk of them being damaged, a couple of lengths of 2x1 timber, a saw and a drill and wallah! The valve stems all look straight and still in good condition, I'm not planning on replacing these just yet so will just be cleaning them up and reseating them when i get chance to sit down and have a good lapping session Inlet Valve Stem: (only stem 1 & 2 have this rusty surface on the top, hopefully it won't effect their functionality) Exhaust Valve Stem: The exhaust valve stems are a little worse off than the inlets, but this is almost always the case, and shouldn't be cause for concern. The stem seals will be the only things I plan on replacing this time around, once I work out how I remove the old ones, I'm assuming they should just pop off but alas, they are deciding to be absolute bitches, so I gotta pick up something a little better than my needle nose pliers, as I can't get a good enough grip on the little suckers. Need to get a few parts ordered before I can continue, so might be a week or 2 before you see any more updates, but we will see
|
|
|
Post by Neil on Sept 23, 2012 14:11:01 GMT 2
Nice work so far Gaz. Give these Guys a shout. www.goodwoodvapourblasting.co.uk/Prices are From £15 for ultrsoniocally cleaning a motorcycle head, so cant imagine your 7m would be much more money! I got a tank at work, but your a bit far from me otherwise i'd just take it into work!
|
|
|
Post by retrogaz on Sept 23, 2012 16:17:24 GMT 2
Nice work so far Gaz. Give these Guys a shout. www.goodwoodvapourblasting.co.uk/Prices are From £15 for ultrsoniocally cleaning a motorcycle head, so cant imagine your 7m would be much more money! I got a tank at work, but your a bit far from me otherwise i'd just take it into work! oooh nice, didn't realise there was a place so close by, I couldn't find much in the vacinity when i did a search, thought i was gonna have to send it via courier. It's probably gonna make more sense to get the head skimmed first, so i'll clean it down best I can then take a drive over to them for cleaning Cheers mate!
|
|
|
Post by retrogaz on Sept 25, 2012 16:33:42 GMT 2
Well, my turbo turned up today, feels solid, no play in the shaft. Just needs a clean up and swap a few bits off my other turbo and she's ready to bolt on once the engine is back together. Oh and the guy I bought it from threw in the exhaust elbow, £70 another ebay bargain! I'm planning to document the entire rebuild so I can write up a detailed rebuild guide with pics for those that are attempting it in the future, and it'll be a good thing for future reference when I have to go digging at the bottom of the engine again. Not far to go now until I have her up and running, here's what I have on my to buy list to get the car to a running state: Cometic head gasket ARP head studs head gasket set valve seals fmic t bolt clamps vacuum hoses drive belts timing belt msd tach adapter Ignition leads Spark plugs I also need to buy a few more tools to complete various jobs and then the wiring can be done. From there, it's basically just the exhaust and bodywork and she'll be on the road, then I can carry on with the big mods I have planned.
|
|
|
Post by Neil on Sept 25, 2012 18:27:25 GMT 2
Apart for the Gunk that turbo doesn't look too bad really. Not much oil on the inlet and so long as there's no forward and back play in the shaft it should be fine for the time being. 200sx walbro fuel pumps are same part number if you haven't got one already. And, as they're coil packs on the 7m you should have all that already i'd have thought for ign. leads? Let me know if you need anything made bud. All i need is a pattern and dimensions really. Also reassuring to see your running a child filter in picture 4. Quite dangerous having such a meaty turbo on the kitchen floor without proper protection for the impeller blades.
|
|
|
Post by retrogaz on Sept 25, 2012 23:09:10 GMT 2
Apart for the Gunk that turbo doesn't look too bad really. Not much oil on the inlet and so long as there's no forward and back play in the shaft it should be fine for the time being. 200sx walbro fuel pumps are same part number if you haven't got one already. And, as they're coil packs on the 7m you should have all that already i'd have thought for ign. leads? Let me know if you need anything made bud. All i need is a pattern and dimensions really. I do have the leads, but I don't know how long they were submerged in water, so I might aswell be cautious and fork out £50 for a decent set. Thanks for the reminder on the fuel pump too, I won't get very far without one... haha. I was assured by the guy that sold me the turbo that it is in full working order, he pulled it off a donor, which he bought for the r154. It will do for now just so I can get this baby up and running, then I can invest from there on.
|
|
|
Post by retrogaz on Sept 26, 2012 22:47:43 GMT 2
Also reassuring to see your running a child filter in picture 4. Quite dangerous having such a meaty turbo on the kitchen floor without proper protection for the impeller blades. Haha, I had to think for a second then, wasn't quite sure what you meant Yes, they are essential in my house, for keeping the little people out of trouble lol. All my parts get relocated to the garage as soon as I get the chance, so they can't be messed with
|
|
|
Post by retrogaz on Oct 9, 2012 20:35:13 GMT 2
Finally got a few minutes to sit down and update my progress on here! Lots of things been happening over the past week, thank you to Neil, my diff rebuild kit arrived safe and sound last week, I'm hoping to crack the diff off and start working on it fairly soon, I've watched a few vids of people changing diffs just to get my confidence up as I've never been inside one before, and from what I've read, the tolerances are really tight, one thing wrong and bang goes the diff.... so hoping I get it right first time I also got my cylinder head skimmed last week, so big thank you to JayF Engineering, absolutely cracking job and a great clean down. 0.002mm off the top and she's looking nice and shiny! I'm currently in the process of scrubbing down the block with some 400 wet n dry and a trusty helping of wd40, I don't have any up to date photos yet, I'll get some tomorrow when I head back down the garage to finish the job. It's basically getting a light sanding to smooth it off ready for the head going back on. This is what it looked like before I started: I have spent about 5 hours so far re-seating the valves, 12 done to date, that's all of the inlet side basically done, just the exhaust valves to go, which I'm gonna sit down and start just now with a nice cold drink. While I'm here, I thought I'd show off my other baby The remaining valves should be done and dusted by tomorrow so I'll be heading back down to JayF to give it a quick clean as the paste can leave quite a mess, then it's off to have it sonically cleaned (most likely next week) to ensure the internals are thoroughly dirt ridden. The next few weeks are going to be quite boring, alot of jobs to do requiring patience and repetitive work, I'll try and fit in the odd exciting job to keep my spirits up, including the diff rebuild. I'm also experimenting with polishing up a few bits, it's looking good so far, fingers crossed, i'll get the results I'm after, so pics to follow! More updates very soon!
|
|
|
Post by retrogaz on Oct 24, 2012 2:27:03 GMT 2
Small progress update - Finally got the diff pulled out so that I can start the rebuild, it was a royal pain to get the upper bolts off as I couldn't get enough leverage so had to get my mate to come give me a hand, and they finally came loose. It's covered in gunk so will be cleaning it up before I crack it open, then fingers crossed I can get it done without fucking it up, from what I've read with some other diffs, it's easy to mess up the tolerances, but looking at the rebuild guide that Neil sent me, it doesn't work the same way with these diffs, there's no need to preload? The guide also recommends using red thread locker when installing the upper housing bolts, is this a necessity or are there alternatives to this? Blue Hylomar? I have a digi vernier micrometer on order as my old micrometer is pretty ancient so will be cracking this bad boy open once that arrives, I'm also planning on ordering a big box of goodies on payday, whether that plan sticks, I can't really say until the misses works some stuff out, so it may only be a small box of goodies we shall see! I'm hoping Neil gets his diff started before me tbh, I'd like to see where this crush sleeve slots into place Though I'm sure it'll be apparent once I get inside, but it would be assuring to know.
|
|
|
Post by mickkelly on Oct 25, 2012 0:03:11 GMT 2
Looking good gaz nice to c u making progress good luck with the diff i still haven't taken my kit out of my work van yet it's hard to get time to wash mine never mind start any work on it
Neil will probably get the crush sleeve fitted soon enough and be able to report any issues I'd guess the crush sleeve just slides in somewhere ass a replacement
|
|
|
Post by retrogaz on Nov 14, 2012 3:38:54 GMT 2
So here we go guys, I'm halfway through rebuilding the diff, just have the pinion wheel to pull and swap out the crush sleeve. I ordered a boss kit last week and it arrived this morning! Considering it came from Thailand, I was well surprised to receive it in less than a week! So I finally have my steering wheel mounted.... plenty of dishy goodness! Anyway.... on with the diff rebuild! So I started by following Neil's diff strip down thread and quickly got the beast dismantled without too much fuss. One thing I must stress, when Neil said "You're now ready to pull the diff from the casing. Needs to be wiggled a bit but comes out ok." OMFG. I needed to break out the crowbar to get the fucking thing to even move never mind wiggle nvm though haha, a carefully placed crowbar and a few gentle coaxing pushes and we had her on the bench and in bits in no time! The Bolts for the diff housing were a pain in the proverbial too! I took it round to the guy in the garage to whiz them off with a whirly gun and it took him a few goes to even budge a couple of them. Looks like they were glued in from a previous rebuild, or even from the factory? Anyway, they came off and I could then get started Once everything was cleaned up I set about measuring the lower plates to get the tolerances exact (Sorry I don't really have any pics of this as all my concentration was exhausted in the process ;D ) I had to add 0.026" to the lower clutch plates. I set the top clutch plates as specified in the instructions that Neil sent me, by inserting .040" of shims, then rebuilding the diff dry and finger tightening the bolts evenly, measuring the gap between the top cover and the diff housing with a feeler gauge (too many shims means the cover will not sit flush on the housing) which gave me a read out of 0.015", which needs to be subtracted from the previously installed 0.040" giving me 0.025" of shims added. Then axial clearance is also required, tolerances for this need to be between 0.006" - 0.010" so I naturally measured it at 0.008" taking my shim thickness down to 0.017". Sounds complicated I know, but it really isn't all that bad. I will continue this rebuild tomorrow as I have to get up early, lots of pics of the assembly and fingers crossed I'll have the pinion wheel out tomorrow - just waiting on my custom tool to arrive (you'll see why when it's done I guess haha)
|
|