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Post by Neil on Nov 25, 2012 18:45:37 GMT 2
Bloody hell, your bench looks like mine! Steady progress so far there, actually your a bit ahead of me, as i need to find a drive gear without any pitting on the face. I Don't want to fit that one back in really, as it's knackered so either i rebuild the auto one i replaced already, or use the old diff, and try and find some decent spares.
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Post by retrogaz on Nov 26, 2012 14:39:57 GMT 2
Bloody hell, your bench looks like mine! Steady progress so far there, actually your a bit ahead of me, as i need to find a drive gear without any pitting on the face. I Don't want to fit that one back in really, as it's knackered so either i rebuild the auto one i replaced already, or use the old diff, and try and find some decent spares. Yeah, not alot of room to work in unfortunately lol. I got the diff bolted back on last night, almost got crushed in the process! I'm intested to see how you get the oil cooler installed actually, as I know they overheat, so might be able to use the cooler I ripped out of the front? A couple of AN fittings to replace the drian and filler bolts?
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Post by Neil on Nov 26, 2012 19:41:36 GMT 2
Yeah, you'd easily be able to use the old Cooler for the diff. Here's what i got for free off One of Chaydons mates on Sunday. (it's usually binned by 200SX owners as their usually on a thermostatic switch, which means they never usually kick in. I will just put it on a normal switch, so it does The Electric pump is needed for pumping round the thick Diff oil around, so will just use some Banjo fittings on the Fill and Drain plugs i think, then i can also make use of the miles of braided Hose i had fall in my lap
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Post by retrogaz on Nov 27, 2012 2:25:12 GMT 2
I guess it's kind of a win win with the oil cooler plumbed in. More oil in the diff to circulate and less chance of burning the bloody thing out haha.
Can you point me in the direction of the sort of pump needed? Would you just run it through a relay switch?
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Post by Neil on Nov 27, 2012 20:48:51 GMT 2
it's just a diff cooler pump from any old Nissan 200sx mate, i think skylines have the same part and most people bin them, so doubt it''ll cost you any more than £10 for the bits. And, yeah there only 2 wires, so you can wire it however you like, wise to put a fuse in though
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Post by retrogaz on Feb 21, 2013 0:25:40 GMT 2
Hey guys, I'm contemplating stripping the bottom end down for a clean while I wait for parts to arrive next month, but I'm not too sure.
The pistons have dirt around the rim which I can't get out without causing any damage, and I'm also concerned that I would have to use new parts if I strip it down?
My main concern is getting the pistons clean and free of debris, what, if anything will need replacing if I do this? Piston rings, bolts etc?
I would also be doing this with the engine still in the car, are there any tools needed to refit the pistons? and anything else I should know before I do this?
Cheers
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Post by retrogaz on Feb 22, 2013 18:30:59 GMT 2
Progress! Got a few parts through today, Decat downpipe from japspeed and some shiny new lightweight pulleys. I managed to get the Crank pulley removed without much fuss, a nice 4ft breaker bar and wedged a pry bar in the flywheel. I have ordered parts from Driftmotion in the usa, a few parts are on back order so it's going to be a few weeks, but the rebuild will be starting end of March for definate now. Parts coming from Driftmotion: MSD Tach adapter ARP Headstud kit Custom power steering belt as the lightweight pulley is slightly larger than standard. Mishimoto Fan and Shroud Kit Gates Racing timing belt New timing belt idler pulley Magnecor Ignition leads NGK Sparkplugs x6 11psi Wastegate actuator 140amp alternator cam seals thermostat (just incase) I'm on the hunt for a fuel pump, I know Neil told me about it at some point, but I must be blind..... Should I be looking to replace the pump in the tank? New water pump is on its way and just working out what size fmic i need to go with before i commit to buying. I have also ordered top end and bottom end pro gasket kits made by cometic, which will come with mhg, but more than likely I will end up using an oem head gasket as I don't have the space to pull the block and have it decked. I'll be checking the block for straightness over the next few days with a feeler gauge and a straight edge. anyone know what sort of specs it needs to meet in order to use a mhg? oh and still considering pulling the pistons, so if anyone can give me some advice on parts that defo need replacing if I strip the bottom end out? I would be most grateful.
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Post by Neil on Mar 9, 2013 14:48:23 GMT 2
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Post by retrogaz on Apr 23, 2013 16:24:24 GMT 2
hey all, small update, I'm pulling the block this week as it's not straight enough for my MHG, so I'm picking up an engine stand and will hopefully be able to borrow a hoist from the mechanic next to my garage, if not, it's off to rent one for the day, which is like £10 or something stupid.
My gasket sets will be arriving within the hour so I'm waiting in for the courier at the moment, I also have a load of stuff coming from driftmotion at some point in the near future, but the block is obviously gonna slow me down a little as it has to be completely stripped out before it can be skimmed.
I most likely will get the cylinders honed while everything's out, i might have to spend a few extra pennies on some arp main bolts and new piston rings/bearings, we shall see how the old ones are looking first though.
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Post by retrogaz on Jun 10, 2013 18:59:36 GMT 2
Seems as though my server is playing up so ill have to re up my pics at some point. Some of the parts from driftmotion were put on back order, so I've had to wait for it to be sent out, so I added a few bits to the order It should hopefully be shipping out this week, so probably a week or two to get here. In the meantime, I've moved into a new lock up, plenty of space to tinker with the car now! I'll post pics later this evening when I get round to pulling them off my phone.
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Post by retrogaz on Oct 8, 2013 17:48:54 GMT 2
hey guys, long time no post! I gotta make it quick as I got work in a few so just a small update and a few shots. The engine is finally going back together!!!!! FINALLY! So the engine has been rebuilt on the stand and tomorrow will be getting hooked up to the gearbox and dropping it back in the car. Last couple of days have been really good and I'm FINALLY looking forward to hearing it running for the first time after nearly 18 months. alot of work still to do, but it's coming along smoothly now.
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Post by Neil on Oct 12, 2013 20:04:09 GMT 2
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Post by retrogaz on Oct 13, 2013 0:39:40 GMT 2
cheers neil yeah pretty much have everything to finish the job now, im waiting for new silicone hoses to come to replace all the air lines around the engine. gonna finish putting the gearbox on in the morning as i ran out of time today, obviously doing it the hard way but i didn't have much room to maneuver a fully built engine into the car. The rad and electric fan needs a little more room, will i have any problems if i modify/cut the slam panel to move the rad forward? I need 30mm or so, i will know for sure how much i need once the gearbox is bolted up as the engine isn't sitting level right now.
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Post by Neil on Oct 13, 2013 21:47:48 GMT 2
It's quite solid around there, but i can't forsee any problems with just cutting a bit out of the Slam Panel to bring the Rad Forward. Surprised you Need to Really. Are you Keeping the viscous fan Still? You could always run the fans in front of the Rad if you have clearance between the intercooler and Rad. So long as you put some strength Back Into the Slam Panel After you cut it, You'll Be Fine. Maybe unbolt it first, then cut it and Bend the Tab over 90 Deg, then Weld to get a nicer finish?
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Post by retrogaz on Oct 14, 2013 2:55:03 GMT 2
It's quite solid around there, but i can't forsee any problems with just cutting a bit out of the Slam Panel to bring the Rad Forward. Surprised you Need to Really. Are you Keeping the viscous fan Still? You could always run the fans in front of the Rad if you have clearance between the intercooler and Rad. So long as you put some strength Back Into the Slam Panel After you cut it, You'll Be Fine. Maybe unbolt it first, then cut it and Bend the Tab over 90 Deg, then Weld to get a nicer finish? False alarm, there is enough room after all, once the engine was seated at the right angle, the rad and fans slotted in nicely with room to spare. I'm not gonna use the viscous fan, I have a duel mishimoto electric fan to go on, and a new 160amp alternator so won't have any issues with it. the hard part is done anyway, gearbox is on (what a struggle that was!) Just piecing the parts back onto the engine now, using the TSRM to make sure I get everything in it's rightful place. I should make some good progress tomorrow and have everything back on the engine, then I can make a start on the wiring, but that's probably the part where I'll be requesting aid from someone that actually knows wtf they're doing lol. Also need to swap out the fuel pump for the walbro I have and make that work as I'm aware there are a few steps needed to get it running properly, so will have to search around online.
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